Color—strong, vivid color—is the big departure in men's sportswear this summer. Such pussyfooting shades as faded denim and brick, last year's color favorites, pale beside the clear hues of the new jackets and slacks for weekend, club and vacation. What's more, the fashion is to mix colors with audacity, rather than to shy away from combinations.
For several winters Palm Beach residents and Caribbean resort-goers have been wearing slacks in high shades of linen and corduroy. The President golfs in lemon yellow, sails in bright red. In many areas bright slacks worn with knit shirts and loafers have replaced walking shorts.
At country cocktail parties for a couple of summers past there have been occasional brave red and green jackets sprinkled among the old reliable blazers and madras jackets. Pro golfers—who helped start it all—have even taken to black and white and gray to distinguish themselves from the brightly clad spectators in the gallery.
But this is the first summer that yellow, orange and red slacks move from the exotic climate of winter resorts to the American backyard; that men's seersucker jackets come in so many different stripings—yellow, red and green, in addition to standard gray and blue. Putting all this color together takes steady nerves and a practiced eye. For the unsure and the color-blind, some stores carry, on the same hanger, a preselected combination of sports jacket and trousers that pick up a color from a check, plaid or stripe in the jacket.
But this takes away part of the fun. One virtue of the enlarged menswear spectrum is that a man can exercise some individuality for a change. One liability (though it will not be considered such by the men who cut the fabric) is the fact that you cannot wear a memorable raspberry jacket to the club buffet every Sunday night the way you can wear an old, forgettable natural-colored linen. So, hopefully, you will buy two or more. With this in mind, the manufacturers are making jackets and slacks in a variety of extra-cool, easy-care fabrics, among them those shown on the following pages.
The news of color and crispness is not all for men. Both qualities distinguish some of the most feminine women's golf clothes ever to grace a summer fairway. They are pictured on pages 77 to 79.
Reflected in the enameled red of an Alfa Romeo 2600, a color primer for summer's sporting occasions: blue jacket, yellow trousers, red-and-white shirt. New double-breasted blazers like this one of a summer-weight wool, herald the imminent return of double-breasted suits.
Raspberry jackets appear in many cool fabric variations this summer. They are not intended for the timorous and should be combined boldly with other colors, as they are here. When teamed with tux trousers (below), dinner shirt, bright tie and cummerbund, a salmon-pink jacket becomes formal sportswear, fit company for a lady in a terrace-length evening shift.
New wrinkle-shedding linen blazers (left) are lifted out of the ordinary when worn with vivid light-weight trousers. The result is a fashion which, like the lady's tricolored silk costume, got its start in winter resorts, now moves north with the sun to backyard and country club.
Bicycle shirts, carbon copies of authentic Tour de France team shirts, are the newest sport-inspired fashion. They come in six boldly striped patterns, go over swimsuits or colorful slacks. The ancient penny-farthing bike is appearing in modern-dress version.
FAIR AND FLOWERY NEW FASHION FOR THE FAIRWAYS
Thanks to the work of a group of top designers known mainly for spectator sports styles, women's golf clothes this summer no longer look like copies of men's. Such tailored touches as bellows pockets for golf balls and tabs for tees are banished. Turbans, hoods and flowered fedoras replace mannish, peaked golf caps. Both designer and golfer Sydney Wragge and designing golf watcher Stella Sloat have contributed beautifully constructed kneecap-length skirts for golfers. Gussie Moran, encouraged by the success of her line of tennis clothes (SI, Jan. 28), has come up with a handsome collection for golf, including a crisp, blazer-buttoned seersucker dress. Even shorts and shirts now have a feminine air. Elizabeth Phelps's golfing costume, worn by the turbaned lady at the right, is made in one of the new soft-hued prints that shorts wearers now prefer. The man in the picture is Golf Pro Joe Longo, in the black-and-white air-conditioned golf clothes preferred by professionals: a shirt of ventilated knit Orion worn over slacks of a 5½-ounce linen blend.
Dressier approach to golf clothes is exemplified in Elizabeth Phelps's collection. Above: A golf blouse with slit shoulders, deep-pocketed Bermuda shorts and leather-tabbed beltare in printed piqué. Piqué turban from Madcaps, glove from American Astral.
Flowers cover a classic golf jacket, shirt and fedora from the new Arnold Palmer collection for Loomtogs (left). Stella Sloat's kneecapping skirt (below, left) is in ice-blue linen; Sydney Wragge's is deep-pleated yellow linen. The golfer at the right wears Gussie Moran's dress of striped seersucker. Even golf clubs come in pastel colors. They are from Ben Hogan's new line for AMF.
WHERE TO BUY