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WAIKIKI'S WATER
Next week is Aloha Week in Hawaii, time of island festivals and the time when shimmering combers rising over the First Break of Waikiki mean only one thing—surfboarding. Of all the surfing beaches of the world, none offers such tumbling excitement to the surfboarder, such a spectacle of endless and rolling water to the viewer, as those of Hawaii
SURFBOARDER'S RIDE BEGINS AT POINT KNOWN AS "FIRST BREAK," WHERE PACIFIC ROLLERS BEGIN TO CREST INTO COMBERS
SKIMMING BEFORE A 12-FOOT-HIGH COMBER AT 35 TO 40 MILES AN HOUR WHILE WHITE FOAM BREAKS AND SPEWS BEHIND IS LIKE TOBOGGANING DOWN A MOVING HILL. GUIDING BOARD OBLIQUELY ALONG WAVE, AN EXPERT MAY SPEED HALF A MILE
SOMETIMES BALANCE GIVES WAY AND CHURNING WATER SENDS SURFER HEAD OVER HEELS UNDER HEAVY, DANGEROUS BOARD
THREE PHOTOS
HY PESKIN
