Clothes for sand or snow
The spearfishermen at the right, outfitted with masks, tanks, spear guns, knives and rubber "wet" suits, are dressed in a manner firmly dictated by the demands of their sport in the chilly waters off La Jolla, Calif. Yet, oddly enough, choosing and assembling all this gear is a fairly simple matter compared to what the girl at their left must consider in selecting a beach outfit for the coming resort season.
Fashions in sports clothes change, and what looks perfectly right at one time in one vacation spot may look quite out of place at another. To assist travelers in selecting sports clothes that will make it obvious that they "belong" wherever they choose to go, the editors of SPORTING LOOK have compiled from their travels to the West Coast, to the Caribbean and to the snow country a portfolio of this winter's fashions for both sun and snow.
The following three pages of color photographs illustrate the fact that the time is long gone when it was enough to head for the beach with a swimsuit and a towel. An up-to-date swimmer today will advance upon the scene as completely turned out as a lady on her way to a ball. The beach costume includes a beach coat designed to go with the swimsuit and made in coordinated color and fabric. It is completed with a beach hat—this year likely to be a whimsical exaggeration of a man's derby or fedora, a logical follow-up to last year's popular gondolier's topper.
The suit is cut sleekly for swimming, but the waistline, in keeping with the currently fashionable Empire silhouette, is accented high, under the bust. Nevertheless, it is a waistline, and a return to figure flattery that should particularly delight those whose favorite sport is girl watching.
As a basis for this ballroom-type elegance, swimsuit fabrics are luxurious. Lastex, the swimsuit standby, is woven in fancy patterns that look like brocades and of iridescent-colored yarns that resemble taffeta. Beach coats, for all their dressy design, are made of practical cottons and Arnel sharkskins that are wrinkle-resistant and water-repellent.
The paradoxical footnote to this dressed-to-the-nines portrait is that beach belles are most likely to be barefoot, à la Brigitte Bardot. The long-legged Bardot look is completed with, at the most, a strip of a sandal, or perhaps an espadrille.
Where to buy
The fashions on pages 60 and 61 will be available at the following stores: Jantzen swimsuit: Burdine's, Frederick & Nelson; Cole swimsuit: Bergdorf Goodman, Bullock's-Downtown, Foley's; Sportmasters' beach coat: J. L. Hudson Co., Makoff's, Neiman-Marcus; Horgan tennis dress: Abercrombie & Fitch, Von Lengerke & Antoine; Elon swimsuit: H. Liebes, Neiman-Marcus, J. W. Robinson; Westwood Knitting Mills swimsuit: Burdine's, Joseph Magnin, Lord & Taylor; Catalina swimsuit: Carson Pirie Scott & Co., Franklin Simon, May Co., Los Angeles; Elisabeth Stewart terry coats and swimsuits: Burdine's, Neiman-Marcus, Roos-Atkins. Beach hats are all by Bill Hawes; accessories, Ruth Matthews.
Counterpointing each other in elaborate sports attire at a rocky La Jolla beach are Doris Greer, in black pique swimsuit cover that is lined in black and white polka dots to match the suit underneath (Caltex, $23 for suit, $20 pullover: Bloomingdale's, Bullock's-Downtown, Burdine's) and Bob Whited (in foreground) and Ed Zwerski, students at San Diego State College and expert weekend spearfishermen.
The straightened line for swimsuits is modified to indicate the waistline: Mrs. Robert S. Waller wears Paisley-printed Helanca (Jantzen, $50), Mrs. Don Greer an ombré Lastex (Cole, $25).
Classic tennis dress is a loose-fitting, low-belted cotton piqué (F. B. Horgan, $15), worn by Doris Greer as she chats with Les Stoefen, pro at the La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club.
A harem-draped beach coat of water-repellent poplin (Jane Ford for Sportmasters, $26) envelops Theodora Davitt at La Jolla's Windandsea Beach, a favorite haunt of the surfers.
This two-in-one sun-and-swimsuit combines an Arnel sharkskin pleated wraparound with brief bra and trunks (John Weitz for Elon, $25).
The best-turned-out look at the La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club teams Doris and Theodora in terry coats, dyed to match the Lastex swimsuits, terry-banded beach hats (Elisabeth Stewart; suit, $20; coat, $13; hat, $9). The ambidextrous Hula-Hoop twirler is wearing a hip-flounced cotton swimsuit (Jantzen, $6)
The high-waisted Empire line, currently popular in fashions from swimsuits to ball gowns, is seen in a suit of wool knit, worn by Donna Walter (Rudi Gernreich for Westwood, $30).
The Empire line in diamond-pattern Lastex, called the "split level," shadows but does not conceal Doris Greer's waistline (Catalina, $18).
Right under the winter sun
Going south? Here's how to look this winter—as lovely as this young lady (right) in a bare-topped linen dress with a back-to-normal silhouette, an embroidered, go-anywhere jacket; as up to the season as her companion in a man's newest fashion—patterned slacks, in linen striped in natural and blue, worn with a blue eight-ounce Shetland jacket. On the next six pages are many other ways to dress—all new, all correct—under any tropical sun or moon from Bermuda (which sets the scene here) to Trinidad.
Color is no longer solely splashed all over the South's golf courses. The jacket shown here, for instance, comes in such colors as citrus yellow, grass green and brick red—perfect foils for the new patterned slacks. Contrariwise, there are many new patterned jackets—some notable examples follow—to be worn, of course, with lightweight slacks in white or a solid color.
Where to buy
This linen dress is at home anywhere south (Donald Brooks for Hedges Ltd., $90: Lord & Taylor, Meier & Frank; Stix, Baer & Fuller after Dec. 15). The slacks are Moygashel linen (Corbin, $22.50: Lew Ritter), jacket of eight-ounce Shetland (M. Sigel, $65: Bloomingdale's, Boyd's). Her diamond and gold bracelet is from Tiffany; her shoes are from I. Miller; his moccasins are from Lefcourt.
Season's best-looking pullover is of 100% camel's hair (David A. Church, $22.50: I. Magnin, Marshall Field, F. R. Tripler). John Linnell wears Liberty silk scarf in crew neck.
Knit trunks have longer legs. Man in center wears orange-toned madras-striped lastex (Jantzen, $8: Meier & Frank). Other two are handloomed of 76% wool, 24% Helanca. Longer length is $18; shorter one $15 (Margaret Pennington: at B. Altman, I. Magnin, Marshall Field).
High noon
At Bermuda's Coral Beach Club the blaze of day discloses many tips for the southbound man. Note again the sports slacks, this time checked—a real trend that will become established this winter. Note also the knit bathing suits, the palm-frond "Tyroleans," the trim Panama, and the return of seersucker. Remember that, within the bounds of taste, one can dress more colorfully beneath the southern sun. Remember, as well, that many native sports clothes you'll be tempted to buy are like some Italian wines—they travel badly.
This look came from Capri: checked linen slacks, cuffless and sockless (Corbin, $22.50: Paul Stuart), with Italian moccasins made of red leather and hemp (Battaglia, $12.50).
After water-skiing on Hamilton Harbor, Ann Binden wears a green-and-white-striped sweatshirt (Geist & Geist, $11: Bonwit Teller, Burdine's), Mike Kelly a red nylon-fleece warmup suit (Catalina, jacket $15, pants $11: Mullen Bluett, Wallachs).
Season's newest hat is old favorite, a Panama, its brim narrowed (Brooks Bros., $10.50). Bill Feick wears it with tan Orion-viscose knit pullover (Ramey, $8.50: at Witty Brothers).
Back again, the wide-striped seersucker jacket, made of Dacron-Orlon-nylon (Deansgate, $35: Boyd's). Mike Kelly wears it with Arnel slacks (Izod, $18: Bullock's-Palm Springs).
The new cabana set has a shorter shirt, snug at the waist. This one has orange-and-yellow-checked cotton top and orange tailored swim trunks (Jantzen, $13 the set: John David).
Newest place to wear a dress is at the beach. Cornelia Cooper's halter-top beach dress is made of cotton bedspreading (Jeanne Campbell for Sportwhirl, $23: Bonwit Teller, Neiman-Marcus).
Nick and Elizabeth Lewin are set for sailing Hamilton Harbor. Nick's boat-neck pullover is blend of 50% mohair and 50% lamb's wool (McGregor, $14: Donaldson's, Hecht Co.). Elizabeth's white-stitched denim outfit has a hooded jacket ($23), tapered pants ($18, both Mr. Mort: at Henri Bendel). His rubber-soled sailing shoes are from U.S. Rubber; hers are made by Capezio.
Newest resort "sneaker" has a soft brushed-leather sole and upper (Bates, $12: Hughes & Hatcher, Jordan Marsh). Plaid slacks are of Galey & Lord Dacron-cotton (Gordon, $18: George Stinchfield).
Bill Feick wears the newest kind of "madras," actually an eight-ounce worsted, woven in exact replica of a madras shirting and tailored into a jacket (Grieco, $65: Boyd's, Robert Kirk, Paul Stuart).
Sundown
Tapered pants, until now the prerogative of the hostess, appear at the sundown hour away from home—for cocktails or dinner at the home of a friend or at a private club. Some resorts, such as Jamaica, approve them for public night spots. The look of the long leg, which started in Italy several years ago, is more nattering than knee-length Bermuda shorts. At almost every resort except Bermuda, pants are favored as a leisure-time uniform. Equally casual are men's new evening jackets—cut in sport fabrics such as madras and batik while retaining the formal shawl collar.
Sun-topped coverall in vivid floral-printed cotton-satin (Ricci for Haymaker, $17: Garfinckel's after Dec. 15) is worn by Coral Sayers on the terrace of the 21 Club.
Newest jacket, worn by John Trimingham, is knit of Viyella in red-and-white hound's-tooth (MacCluer, $65: Boyd's, Bullock & Jones, Saks Fifth Avenue).
At a Coral Beach Club rum-swizzle party, Cornelia Cooper looks elegant in white silk Jacquard shirt and pants (Custom Craft, $53: DePinna, Joseph Magnin, Neusteter's); Pappagallo sandals. Club's host, Nick Lewin, also follows after-sundown resort trend toward "evening sportswear": a batik dinner jacket ($39.50) and olive dinner trousers of linen and Terylene ($24.50, both Gordon of Philadelphia: at Atkinson's, Geo. Stinchfield, Whitehouse & Hardy).
Fur is flying on the mountains
The year of Alaskan statehood will find Eskimo parkas warming wearers on ski slopes far from Nome. Here's how to wear them—and the rest of the new ski clothes
For the ski-going resorter, the biggest (and most extravagant) new look of the season is right out of Nanook of the North: Eskimo furs. Seal and lynx, wolf, fox and reindeer (and such frankly fake furs as Werewolf, a Borg pile fabric) have traveled a far piece from the Dew line. Although the sealskin parka (below) has been sported at such elegant ski centers as Tremblant and Sun Valley for several seasons, the new awareness of Alaska in this year of its statehood has really started the fur look flying. As Sonja Henie well knew, nothing frames a pretty face prettier than a hood of fox. And as any Eskimo can tell you, sealskins are among the warmest, most durable and water-shedding of furs. In less extravagant but no less fashionable forms, fur will show up in mittens, floppy after-ski scuffs and as trim on hoods and coat collars.
But fur is not the only news for skiers. The newest parka is of quilted nylon, down or Dacron-filled. Its lightweight bulk over slim pants makes the silhouette of the year. Note also, on the following pages, the knitted headbands, the collector's-item sweaters. All of these things combine with stretch pants, which continue to be the single most desired item of ski apparel. Although every manufacturer in the business is now making them, the word Bogners, after their innovator, Willi Bogner, has become as generic for them as Levi's for blue jeans. And while the disappearance of clothes-snagging rope tows has made good-looking ski clothes wearable everywhere, it was stretch pants which broke the color barrier. There is so much color about these days that the slick blonde who draws the most admiring glances will probably be the one who dresses in head-to-toe black.
Never be surprised at what turns up on a ski slope—Navajo Indian blankets and Scottish kilts have become commonplace. Now we have a Peruvian Indian head-warmer, a mask of hand-knit, hand-dyed wool (Pi√±ata Party, $8; B. Altman & Co.; Kerr's). Every mask is slightly different. The Peruvian Indians also contribute vividly colored, ear-covering, long-tasseled fastcaps.
Lynx encircles a pretty face as it trims the hood of a parka of white wool, decorated with red, yellow and green rickrack (Irving of Montreal, $75: Saks Fifth Avenue). The mittens are of fox ($20, Andre). And the greatcoat—warm enough to afford protection in a williwaw—is of Greenland baby hair seal. It's lined in nylon, is hooded, has huge two-way zipper (Andre, $295: to order, allow one week for delivery).
These sealskin parkas are without doubt the most luxurious ever made. But, far from being mere luxury, they are very warm, durable and cut for serious skiing. Jules Andre sells more than 100 a year. His men's parka here is of Labrador hair seal, with wolf-trimmed hood, lynx trim at bottom and Eskimo patterning in rabbit fur ($185, Andre). The ladies' of Newfoundland hair seal is trimmed in wolf, decorated with brocaded ribbon (Ernst Engel, $325: at Saks Fifth Avenue).
The slickest silhouette on the slope is still the slim-line outfit in dark colors that stand out in a generally colorful crowd. The black poplin parka (below left) slides over a pair of black stretch pants that have a hairline stripe of green (Ernst Engel parka, $18, pants, $50: Bloomingdale's, J. L. Hudson, May Co.-D &F). The navy Austrian cardigan (Sig Buchmayr, $40) is paired up with faintly diamond-patterned navy stretch pants (Bogner, $49.50: Sig Buchmayr). Hood, mittens match ($11, Saks Fifth Avenue).
A Mondrian painting inspired this collector's sweater and matching headband (Andre, $50). Picasso, Gris and Miró can also be had, all knitted to order, with three-week delivery.
The bulkiest—and newest—silhouette on the slope is the quilted nylon parka, so warm and light that skiers everywhere have been quick to follow the pros in picking it up. Two versions at the right include the black quilts which have fluffy Dacron filling and nylon hoods which roll into neat collars and the bulkier pale-blue parkas with Gyron filling and high-zipped wool knit collars. (Woman's black parka, Ernst Engel, $30: Bramson's, B. Forman. Man's, $35: Saks Fifth Avenue. Blue parkas, White Stag, $30: Ski Den, Minneapolis; Ski Inc., Denver; Ski Scape, New York; Sportsman Ski Shop, Reno.)
Another geometric-patterned sweater is this Hekla design from Sweden (Porath & Magneheim sweater $25, headband $1.50, goggles $3: Bloomingdale's, May Co.-D & F).
Solid-color American-knit sweater has an attached hood that can be pulled down into a high turtle neck (Geist & Geist, $25: Bramson's, Halle Bros., J. W. Robinson). The Austrian popcorn knit in yellow wool has V neck (Sig Buchmayr, $35). Cap is striped red and white (P&M, $3).
EIGHT PHOTOS
CHRISTA
FIFTEEN PHOTOS
EIGHT PHOTOS
FRANCESCO SCAVULLO