Sailing into summer
The great U.S. boom in boating has brought on a boom in boating clothes that is big news. As some 5 million boats cast off this summer, the best-turned-out sportsmen yet will be aboard. SPORTS ILLUSTRATED'S summer preview therefore presents the best of both the newest and the tried-and-truest from which the sailor of a rowboat or a yacht can make a wise choice. The colorful New Orleanians shown on following pages and charging through the spray on page 63 are real sailors, and they are pretesting a fair-or-foul-weather collection of sailing clothes designed especially for SPORTS ILLUSTRATED'S women readers by Jane Ford (SI, Dec. 24, 1956) and manufactured by Sportmasters of California in Los Angeles. This collection is being launched with fashion shows this week at yacht clubs and department stores across the country. Other newsworthy offerings in sailing clothes, including new wind-and-water-repellent pullovers and parkas derived from ski wear, are also presented.
But you won't spend the summer in sailing clothes. Summer discoveries also include easy-livin' apparel: old fashioned seersuckers and calicoes, up-to-the-minute blends of Dacron and natural fibers for lighter-than-ever summer suits and southern planter elegance in linen and silks for summer evenings. All in all, the following preview of the coming season presents 75 items of choice. The spinnaker cloth used by Kenneth Watts, a sailmaker in Torrance, Calif., to-make spinnakers for America's Cup contenders, is the basis for Jane Ford's spanking new group of foul-weather clothes (page 56). This nylon fabric is strong, lightweight, water-repellent and yet porous enough to be comfortable in the steamiest summer storms. Jane also uses it for matching scarves which she, a sailor herself, finds to be the simplest and most functional headgear. Red, white or blue water-repellent poplins (Greenwood Mills) make up the balance of the collection: a middy, parkas, jackets, shirts and pants in every length from California-short to Newport-long. Jackets are windproofed with elasticized inner cuffs (or elastic at both wrist and upper arm for push-up sleeves) and drawstring necklines and hoods. Many pants have front pockets below jacket level.
Foul-weather suits of nylon spinnaker cloth are shown by Mrs. Joseph Killeen Jr. (in blue), Mrs. Alfred Brown Jr. (in red) and Mrs. William B. Rudolf (in yellow) as they run before the wind in Rutledge Delgado's Dragon, the Jubilee. Their sailing shoes are nonslip Sperry "Top-Siders."
Nylon sailcloth duffel bag, made by Kenneth Watts of Torrance, Calif., is for taking Jane Ford clothes aboard. It can be stenciled with the owner's name.
Three sailors in wind-and-water-repellent poplin are Louisette Brown (above right) in jacket with zip pocket, deck pants; Hayne Rudolf in hooded jacket, red shorts; and (below) Mrs. Miles P. Wynn in poplin shirt, pants, cotton-knit sweater ($3, Duofold), duck hat ($3, Abercrombie & Fitch), madras espadrilles ($6.50, "Baffeez").
A gallery of gear
Starting with the stripe-trimmed poplin middy ($16) and tapered pants ($10) worn by Connie Killeen, and-. proceeding clockwise, prices are: nylon sea bag, $12; 36-inch nylon spinnaker-cloth scarf, $4; poplin deck shirt, $12; short poplin shorts, $9; Jamaica-length shorts with front slash pockets, $9; spinnaker-cloth jacket, $26; matching pants, $19; hooded poplin coat, $33; sweat shirt, $5; poplin deck pants, $9; bias-zipped poplin Jamaica shorts, $9; Sperry "Top-Siders," $9. Zip-front poplin jacket in center, $19, the shirt $12. All poplins come in blue, red and white; the spinnaker cloth in red, yellow and blue; sweat shirt in white, yellow, red and navy. All are available at the following stores: J. P. Allen, Atlanta; L. S. Ayres & Co., Indianapolis; Bon Marche, Seattle; Dayton's-Schuneman, St. Paul; Filene's, Boston; G. Fox & Co., Hartford; Wm. Hengerer, Buffalo; Higbee Co., Cleveland; Joseph Home, Pittsburgh: Hutzler's, Baltimore; Kreeger's, New Orleans; Boston Store, Milwaukee; H. S. Pogue Co., Cincinnati; Saks Fifth Avenue, Beverly Hills, Chicago, Detroit, Fort Lauderdale, Miami Beach, New York, San Francisco, Skokie, Springfield, White Plains; Thalhimer's, Richmond.
From slopes to decks
In addition to Jane Ford's new collection of sailing clothes shown on the previous pages, there is more new nautical apparel this summer that has grown out of America's love affair with boats and life on the water. Here, photographed on more members of the Southern Yacht Club crew sailing Lake Pontchartrain, are the best of the rest. Particularly interesting are the madras parkas (below left). They are made by Eleanor Van Waveren, a lady from Vermont, who tested them on her state's ski slopes this spring and has carefully endowed them with the same sleek functional qualities that skiers demand of their parkas. Treated for wind-and water-repellency—as are most of the clothes shown here—and elasticized at waist and wrist, they'd be just as useful on a beach or in a car as on a deck. The other clothes were picked with the same standards in mind—no claptrap, no embroidered anchors, but real sailing clothes.
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John Gary paints his boat in a terry cloth sailing pullover from Italy. It is blue with white trim, has square neckline ($15.50, Abercrombie & Fitch).
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Alfred and Louisette Brown wear sailing parkas of wind-and-water-repellent Indian madras ($15, Van Waver en: Anson Newton, Morristown; Phelps-Terkel, Los Angeles; Top Drawer, New Orleans).
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A seaman's favorite blouse—the middy. Gary's is a copy of French sailor's in green fine-wool felt ($15, Chequer). He wears it over brushed-cotton turtle-neck sweater-shirt ($3, Duofold). Mrs. Stanley Bremermann wears Brittany fisherman's shirt of terra-cotta sailcloth ($8.50) over long-sleeved striped cotton mate-lot shirt ($5, Voila, Stonington, Conn.).
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Connie Killeen, a first-rate New Orleans sailor, crews in a yellow sailcloth jacket ($8), worn with yellow-and-white striped shorts ($6, White Stag: Macy's, San Francisco; Younkers, Des Moines).
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Orange is a big color in boat clothes this year. And Mrs. W. Loring Ferguson Jr. wears it in a drawstring blouse of harlequin-patterned orange and pink cotton ($9) with white sailcloth pants which also have drawstring waist ($7, John Weitz of Printzess Square: Goldring's, New Orleans; Volk Bros., Dallas).
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Rudy Rudolf, here on his 36-foot ketch, the Cap'n Flint, skippers in a bulky sweater with the lines of a pea jacket ($18, Catalina: Gimbels, New York; Mullen & Bluett, Los Angeles).
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Pea-jacket influence is also seen in this brass-buttoned, water-repellent navy cotton poplin sailing coat, worn by dinghy-sailor Susan Kambach($16, John Weitz for March & Mendl: The Blum Store; Joseph Magnin; Neiman-Marcus).
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Alfred Brown checks the rigging on the Cap'n Flint in a blue chambray jacket called the Old Salt ($8, Bennett: Domino, Chicago; Lew Ritter, Los Angeles). His shorts are red Dacron-cotton poplin ($13, Corbin: Lew Ritter; Paul Stuart).
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Spanking white sailing pullover is of Dacron and cotton poplin, has ribbed-knit crew neck and cuffs, matching lined Jamaica shorts ($12 shirt, $8 shorts, Florence Walsh: Lord & Taylor; Rich's).
Two-piece-plus
The two-piece bathing suit, about as close as Americans get to a bikini, is in for a big summer, and it has already created a new family of clothes to be worn with it. There are jackets, the newest being modified beach shirts or dresses that skim the knee. There are skirts, most ingenious of which is the dinner skirt (see p. 56) which can be worn as a beach dress (below right). There is also a boom in beach shirts for men: the new look is a pullover in rough-textured cotton or imported velour.
Shown in New Orleans, in the bayou country and at a swimming pool in the French Quarter, are two-piecers and their pluses: 1 Frank Blank wears an Indian cotton pullover ($12, Bennett: Lew Ritter, Los Angeles; Outdoor Traders, Greenwich; Ruben-stein Bros., New Orleans), holds madras bottle caddy ($10, Holt-Knowles: Outdoor Traders). 2 Luisa Gilardenghi picnics in while broadcloth smock ($23, Frank Smith for Masket: B. Altman; Famous-Barr). 3 Anna-Carin Bjorck wears bare-midriff dress of batik($l 8, Smith for Masket: Famous-Barr). 4 Embroidered seersucker shirt is worn over suit ($20 shirt, Pembroke Squires for Cabana: Bonwit Teller; Julius Garfinckel; John Wanamaker). Frank's Jacquard cotton tie ($8, Taylor Ties) sets off jacket of rayon-Dacron-mohair blend ($30, Palm Beach: Rogers Peet). 5 At right, Luisa shows a seersucker suit with dinner skirt that can be worn as a coat ($14 skirt, $18 suit, Pembroke Squires for Cabana: Bonwit Teller; Julius Garfinckel; John Wanamaker), Anna-Carin a geometric-print suit and shoulder-tied beach coat ($23 each, Tina Leser: Hutzler's; Nan Duskin).
A cool approach to a warm season
While life on or by the water may be the coolest way to spend a summer, it isn't the only way. Here is a varied wardrobe for warm weather in town or country, again photographed in New Orleans, a city that knows so well how to dress in summer that a local company, Haspel, made the first wash-and-wear suit. This summer finds a strong return of the dirndl dress; of the seersucker suit; of southern planter linens and the Mark Twain vest. There is also a new look in the evening, shown on this page—cool, elegant evening sportswear of silk and linen, one of the lightest fabrics ever made in a town suit (right).
At the Morning Call, New Orleans' late-evening coffee spot, Frank Blank wears a navy hot-weather suit ($65, Varsity Town: John David; J. L. Hudson) of Raeford 2/80' s six-ounce Dacron-tropical worsted, white linen vest ($13.50, Paul Stuart). Luisa's costume has strawberry-print silk coat ($90), shirt ($25) and slim linen skirt ($25, B. H. Wragge: Bonwit Teller; I. Magnin; Gus Mayer).
For cocktails in a patio, Anna-Carin wears emerald chiffon "wind-breaker" ($23) over white linen scoop-neck sheath ($45, B. H. Wragge: Bonwit-Teller; I. Magnin; Gus Mayer). Jeb Stuart's sport jacket is yellow silk shantung ($85, Paul Stuart), worn with black bow tie, pleated dinner shirt, tuxedo trousers for evening.
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Madras ascot ($3, Brooks Brothers) is cool solution to casual dressing up, here worn with button-down oxford shirt ($6, Gant), beige Moygashel linen jacket ($40, Linett).
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Gray-and-while checked jacket, matching gray slacks ($43 jacket; $22.50 slacks, Gordon of Philadelphia: I. Magnin; Whitehouse & Hardy) are of a cool wrinkle-resistant linen-Terylene blend. Pale blue Dacron-cotton-blend dress has sport-shirt sleeves, cardigan neckline ($65, B. H. Wragge: Bon-wit Teller; I. Magnin; John Wanamaker).
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The double-duty shirt ($30, Bronzini) is of fine broadcloth. It has a convertible Italian collar, red-white striped sleeves, is business shirt with jacket, sport shirt without.
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Luisa's rowing jacket of terry toweling is worn over brown cotton jersey shorts and sleeveless shirt ($12 jacket, $8 shorts, $8 shirt, Bill Atkinson for Glen of Michigan: Kaufmann's; I. Magnin). Terry blazer ($8, Rabhor: Arnold Constable) tops patchwork madras trunks ($9, Brook House: Wilmington Country Store, Greenville, Dela.).
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Calico dirndl is trimmed with rickrack ($27, Pembroke Squires for Cabana: The Blum Store; Jos. Magnin; Marshall Field).
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Doug Pence matches linen jacket ($140, Linett: Bloomingdale's), striped slacks ($23, Corbin: Lord & Taylor). Anna-Carin wears patchwork madras ($55, Donald Brooks for Hedges: Henri Bendel; Neiman-Marcus).
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Dacron-cotton sport jacket is in black-and-white check ($40, Chipp). Summer tie is of cotton poplin ($7.50, Countess Mara).
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Ted Purtell wears a perennial summer favorite that this year will be more popular than ever: the washable cotton seersucker suit, gray-and-white-striped ($28.7 5, Brooks Brothers). His straw boater has a new, narrower brim, striped band ($6.75, Dobbs). Tab-collar shirt of broadcloth has French cuffs, is another revival ($5, Arrow). Tie is a silk paisley ($3.50, F. A. MacCluer).
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Another example of the beach shirt is this one in a dishrag mesh. It admits sun, has braided-rope closure ($9, McGregor).
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Imported velours are in popular new beach shirts. Rear shirt has convertible collar ($9, Rabhor); left, one has short sleeves, boat neck ($13), other is brown-white stripe ($15, both Sawaco: Webb's, Clearwater, Fla.; Swift, Ltd., San Francisco).
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The Henry Higgins hat, inspired by one Rex Harrison wore in My Fair Lady and popular in tweed last season makes its debut as the newest hat of summer, perfect for golf or beach, in tweed straw ($7.50, Brooks Brothers) and stitched madras ($7.50, Chipp).
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DON'T READ THIS PAGE—
Until you have seen the color picture on page 63. That picture, and the one opposite, were transposed through a mechanical error. The sailors should be here, and these pretty girls should be there.
JUST A MINUTE!
Turn back and look at the bathing beauties on page 56 before reading this page.