Fashioned for a banner year
Winter sport—and fashion—never looked forward to a better year. The gay crowds dotting the once-remote High Sierras (see page 74) and the heady anticipation of the Winter Olympics have inspired such top American designers as Bonnie Cashin and Arnold Scaasi to turn their talents to ski fashions. It has caused stores as far removed from a ski lift as Neiman-Marcus to put in ski departments. The country's leading manufacturer of ski clothes, White Stag, with a line twice the size of last year's, has doubled its ski business. Importers of European sweaters, pants and boots have a daily airlift flying into Idlewild. This week the first Winter Sports Show at the New York Coliseum is giving impatient skiers a chance to examine new equipment (see page 102), check the new resorts and watch a demonstration of the shortswing on an indoor hill covered with ersatz snow. They are also getting a firsthand look at all of the clothes on these pages in a three-times-daily fashion show.
Here is a collection of the best they are seeing. Photographed in Squaw Valley, these clothes show, among other trends, colors completely new to the sport this year (see opposite page)—rusty browns, for instance, that are inspired by the California redwood used by many Squaw Valley home owners, and the vivid blues and greens used in the Squaw Valley Lodge. Shown, too, on the following pages, is a new group of ski-watching clothes for Olympic travelers designed especially for SPORTS ILLUSTRATED by Bonnie Cashin; "fast clothes" with the look of the hot-shot downhiller, borrowed from the racers; ingenious new designs for keeping warm while standing out of doors in zero weather; and elegant after-ski furs and glitter for a glittering season.
These pages show that skiers, who once wore nothing more inspiring than duffel coats and black from head to toe, now take honors as the best-dressed men and women in sport.
The exuberant skiers at Squaw Valley wear the colors of the California redwood dominating the mountain slopes behind them. Lee Baker, wearing a black nylon parka with rust-lined hood ($16), fiddles with Zenith's 1000-D round-the-world transistor radio ($275, Abercrombie & Filch). Sophie Baker's parka reverses from cotton jacquard to rust nylon ($26) and is worn over orange cable-knit sweater ($25). Suzy Ruel wears a cable-quilted nylon parka lined in white nylon with a hidden hood ($20). Her fast helmet is of Orion ($3). Jubilant John Marion's parka is iridescent brown nylon ($17), and Carolyn Carpenter's is tricolor poplin ($17). All wear the new Skilastic stretch pants ($40, all White Stag. All at Bon Marche, Seattle; Halle Bros., Cleveland; Joseph Horne, Pittsburgh; Macy's San Francisco; Ski Den, Minneapolis. Men's clothes also at Bloomingdale's; women's at Lord & Taylor). Jim Lichtlider has an argyle-patterned wool-and-mohair pullover ($17, Jantzen: Broadstreet's, New York) and a new color: bronze stretch pants ($45, Roffe, Viking Sports Center, San Francisco; Yale Co-op, New Haven).
The blues of Squaw Valley
Colors of buildings checkerboarding the slopes at Squaw Valley are repeated in the stripes of Suzy Ruel's long, belted hand-knitted sweater. Made-to-measure stretch pants match ($50 sweater, $60 pants: André Ski Shop). Velveteen belt (Elegant).
A mohair cocoon
Snugly wrapped in a unique new stadium warmth-preserver, Dolores Greer shows a Scottish blanket with leather bindings, snap fasteners and drawstrings that close it at neck and ankles ($90, Bonnie Cashin for Philip Sills). Her boots zip at sides ($16, Capezio: all, Neiman-Marcus; Roos/Atkins).
A lady in leopard
Jo Anne Brandt brings furs to the slopes with her cardigan of snow leopard and red fox ($875, Scaasi for Ben Kahn: Jenny Co.; Nan Duskin; Roberts Brothers) and shaggy boots of acrylic fiber ($14, Ulla: Saks Fifth Avenue). Sam Currey, hovering attentively, wears an Austrian jacket of shrunken wool ($30, Beconta: Aspen Sports Shop), Hathaway Viyella shirt, Reis scarf.
A picnic in the pines
Out for a musical lunch at Dr. Bernard Diamond's ski lodge are Dolores, in hand-knit pink mohair sweater ($55), suède pants ($65), and Suzy, who watches in striped mohair sweater ($55), kidskin pullover ($70), stretch pants ($60, all Bonnie Cashin: Neiman-Marcus; Roos/Atkins. Dolores' outfit is also at Saks Fifth Avenue). Guitar-playing Jim Lichtlider wears a mohair sweater ($65, Gino Paoli: at Capper & Capper; Goldwaters).
Cashin's cachet
Bright leathers and knits (left and below) are Bonnie Cashin's cachet for the coming season. A designer long admired for her practical outdoor clothes, she has concentrated for the first time on the ski spectator in an Olympic year collection for SPORTS ILLUSTRATED. At right is a casual tunic of costly fur; on pages 88 and 92 are two innovations in mohair calculated to set the sartorial pace for snow bunnies: an all-inclusive bench warmer and a pert jump suit.
1 Chinese "fat-man's vest" of pine-green beaver is belted over shirt and after-ski pants by Jo Anne Brandt ($600 plus tax, Bonnie Cashin for Fantasia Furs: Jenny Co., Cincinnati; Lord & Taylor). Marcel Boucher bracelet ($20, Lord & Taylor).
2 Lunching on sun deck are Instructor Lee Baker in Bavarian cardigan ($34.50, P&M: Chicago Ski Shop; Scandinavian Ski Shop, New York), his wife Sophie in suède ensemble ($146; Bonnie Cashin for Sills: Neiman-Marcus; Roos/Atkins).
For warm watching
Cover-up clothes for the spectator who spends his time sitting on snowy slope or at frozen rinkside are as essential as lightweight action dress is for the athletes he watches. Here on these pages, and elsewhere in this winter collection, are items designed specifically for extra warmth in the wintry outdoors. In addition to these, the spectator should wear the new insulated long underwear, mittens or gloves with insulation and liners, new double-layer insulated socks and, most important—as those who have had wet, cold feet will tell you—water-repellent and insulated boots.
1 John Marion and Suzy Ruel smile under matching astrakhan hats ($15, Thomas Begg, New York). John wears a hooded melton coat ($30, White Stag: Bloomingdale's), Suzy a shearling topper ($100, White Stag: Frederick & Nelson; Lord & Taylor). Suzy's boots are by U.S. Rubber.
2 Atop the official timing shelter are Stan Tomlinson in hooded black-fox greatcoat ($300 plus tax, André, New York) and Dolores Greer in mohair jump suit ($160, Bonnie Cashin for Philip Sills: Neiman-Marcus). Aris gloves.
3 Looking up Squaw Peak, Ned Damon wears Darvan pile coat ($85, Zero King: Marshall Field), Carolyn Carpenter a polar-bear coat of Verel and Orion ($99.50, White Stag: Lord & Taylor). Binoculars are from Abercrombie & Fitch.
4 Here Suzy's flared bias-cut wool pullover has knitted turtle neck that can be pulled up for a hood ($50, Europe Craft: Frederick & Nelson, Seattle; Halle Bros., Cleveland).
5 Wearers of hooded Norwegian seal coats are protected from any kind of weather, whether standing or sitting. Suzy has a blue-back seal ($500), Norm McKinnon a silver seal ($350, both plus tax, André). Foresighted Suzy carries liquid warmth in a leather-covered thermos (Abercrombie & Fitch).
6 Cardigan coat of acrylic fiber with leather loops keeps Mrs. Howard Hawks warm ($85, Ulla: Saks Fifth Avenue).
7 This water-repellent wool "Snoodle" has felt trim ($4, Ilse Albert: Best & Co.). French nylon sunglasses have interchangeable lenses in green, brown, amber ($1.25, Beconta).
Fastest look on the hill
For skiers, this is the year of the Fast Look; for ski fashions, it is a milestone. Racers and instructors like Lee Baker and Carolyn Carpenter (below) set the pace with items that hark back 25 years. Today the fashion wheel has turned full circle to bring back bamboo poles and knitted headbands, leather Alpine knickers and patterned socks. New items in the Fast Look are insulated parkas with cartridge quilting, racers' padded, insulated leather gloves, stretch pants so slim as to be almost skintight—you can gain 10 minutes on a lift line just by wearing them.
1 Fast man's parka is quilted cotton, nylon-lined ($20, White Stag: Joseph Horne; Macy's San Francisco); new sueded leather knickers are water-repellent ($40, Iselin Imports: Aspen Leaf, Denver), as are Selbu socks ($9, P&M: Scandinavian Ski Shop, New York). P&M headband is $1.35. Woman's parka is nylon, has hidden hood ($20, White Stag: Joseph Horne; Lord & Taylor).
2 A warm silk liner ($4, Beconta: Sig Buchmayr, N.Y.; Pete Lane, Sun Valley) slips inside leather Austrian slalom glove with padded knuckles ($13, Beconta) that grips striped bamboo racing pole ($8, Sporthaus).
3 The jacket that started the fast look is Dacron-filled, quilted nylon racer with elastic inserts ($22.50, Roffe: Ski Shop, Detroit; Viking Sports Center, San Francisco). Racing helmet of leather is Italian ($16, P&M).
4 Austrian-made Graup boot has new high inner boot favored by racers ($70), is laced with new tension-stretch and nonloosening elastic laces ($1.50, both Beconta: Aspen Leaf, Denver; Sig Buchmayr, New York).
5 Man's quilted nylon parka has pile-lined sleeves, nylon insulated body, detachable hood, wool knit at throat; comes in 55 colors ($55, Bogner: Scandinavian Ski Shop; Sporthaus, Westwood). P&M goggles ($3).
For Olympic collectors
The Olympic year has already produced ski fashions that should intrigue the collector. Shown on these two pages is a round-up from Europe and the U.S. which will be practical for both skiers and spectators. Thank Yankee ingenuity for a double-shell parka that adjusts to the temperature, and for a huge quilt-coat that covers from head to toe and hangs by a loop on the top. From Europe come hamster fur for ski parkas and velvety cotton velours, wide-wale corduroy and blankets for pullovers. Both domestic and foreign makers have contributed new sweaters in team colors.
1 Double parka has removable inner shell of quilted nylon which attaches to outer shell of mosaic-printed polished cotton with Velcro strips which grip on the shoulder seam ($32.50, Sunshine Parkas by Barbara: Lord & Taylor; Pete Lane, Sun Valley).
2 Hamster parka lined with cotton quilting ($195 plus tax, Walter Stiel: Joseph Magnin, San Francisco; Saks Fifth Avenue) is worn by Mrs. Howard Hawks with stretch knickers ($50, Irving of Montreal), Bavarian knicker socks ($6, Beconta), Ulluk fake-fur acrylic-fiber after-ski boots ($13.50, Ulla: at Saks Fifth Avenue).
3 Insulated quilted nylon greatcoat protects spectator from head to toe, has loop on the top for hanging ($50), is shown with French ski gloves ($14) and Eskimo wolf mukluks ($75, André).
4 Nylon fanny-pack belt worn with printed parka ($25) matches blue ski pants ($45, both Ernst Engel: J. L. Hudson, Detroit).
5 Icelandic-motif sweaters made in Sweden of preshrunken wool are worn in companion cardigan and pullover styles by Dolores Greer ($28.50; matching cap $4) and Norm McKinnon ($25, all P&M: Chicago Ski Shop; Helm of Sun Valley, Sacramento).
6 Swiss cotton velour, a new after-ski favorite, appears below in three new pullovers: (left) as dyed-to-match after-ski pants ($11 pullover, $30 pants, Ernst Engel: Bramson's, Chicago), (center) with rib-knit collar and cuffs ($13.50, Beconta: Aspen Sports, Denver; Sig Buchmayr, New York), (right) in long length which can be belted ($25 Bergo-Schellenberg: Bonwit Teller, New York).
7 Giant-cable-knit sweater ($45, Iselin Imports: I. Magnin; Paul Stuart, New York) is worn with heavy rib-knit wool pants ($30, Brooks Bros.) Lined boots zip up back ($22.50, Tyrol: Sporthaus).
8 Blanket-wool pullover worn by Ski Instructor Stan Tomlinson is made in Denmark ($20, Europe Craft: Lew Ritter, Westwood).
9 Olympic sweaters in red-white-and-blue are modeled by Ski Instructors Carolyn Carpenter, in cardigan ($30, Jantzen: Kauffman's, Pittsburgh), and Norm McKinnon in pullover with three-color yoke ($25, Jantzen: Wolfe's Sportswear, Salt Lake City).
10 Corduroy is the big news with skiers, especially as shown here by John Marion in slash-neck pullover ($34.50) and knickers ($19.50, Iselin Imports: Norse House, New York; Roos/Atkins).
After-ski luxury
For the cheery and relaxing hours of the evening, Squaw Valley skiers will undoubtedly follow the trend toward elegant informality that has been developing at St. Moritz and such American resorts as Vermont's Sugarbush, where skiers dine by the light of crystal chandeliers. On these two pages are skirts for women who yearn to change from ski pants after the long day, and sleek after-ski pants as slim as the new ones for the slopes.
1 Chicki Stevens wears a mink gill skirt and silk satin shirt ($350, Philip Hulitar: I. Magnin) for a gala evening dress.
2 Micheline Swift relaxes happily in a lamélike jersey blouse ($29) and velveteen party pants ($29, Hannah Troy: Harold's, Minneapolis; Saks Fifth Avenue) in the ski-lodge atmosphere of Los Angeles' Scandia restaurant. Her gold kid mules are Capezio; gold and ruby jewelry, Tiffany.
1 Joyce Johnson wears cozy black-and-white blanket-plaid dinner skirt ($30) with satin shirt ($20, Mr. Gee: De Pinna, New York) and fur accessories—sealbelt ($5), broadtail clutch bag ($13, both Walter Katten: B. Altman). Velvet flats are from Capezio.
2 A trench coat in natural vicuna fur ($1,000 plus tax, Scaasi for Ben Kahn: Nan Duskin, Philadelphia; Roberts Bros., San Francisco) doubles as lift coat in daytime. Paisley scarf is from Glentex.
3 A short topper to wear with pants is made of gray Tuscany lamb ($250, GeorgesKaplan, NewYork; JosephMagnin, SanFrancisco). After-ski streich pants are of orange worsted and nylon, have straps to keep them taut ($30, Ernst Engel: Saks Fifth Avenue).
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