A golden start for the sixties
Our selection of new fashions for spring reflects a shrinking world. The private plane shown on this Arizona ranch can bring its passengers from winter chill to desert heat in one routine trip. This quick change in climate makes clothing a special problem. Hence the new suits, worn by a couple arriving at the Rose Tree Ranch high in the Mustang range, are of fabrics which bridge the gap between winter and summer as easily as the swiftly flying plane. Neither the soufflé tweed of the woman's coat nor the Dacron-and-worsted gabardine of the man's weighs more than nine ounces to the yard. Their colors, lemon yellow and bronzed olive, are in the season's favorite golden range.
On the pages which follow are more aspects of this spring's season-bridging clothes. Golden-hued leathers—chamois and su√®de—are favorites not only down on the ranch but everywhere outdoors. The odd sport jacket, a man's most versatile garment, has been taken up by women for golf and riding and is worn with the same added dash of varicolored sport shirts and foulard scarves. The man's pullover golf sweater, also in the gold of the season, has replaced the cardigan at last.
For spring's favorite participant sport, east or west, there are ever better, ever newer golf jackets, shirts, shorts, skirts and slacks—all designed to make the swing easier, if not truer.
High in the Mustangs, Models Leone Vernet and Jason Will alight from Cessna's new 310d to be met by Rose Tree Ranch's Head Wrangler Buzz Cline. Her maize wool tweed coat ($120) by Aquascutum (Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh; Lord & Taylor), is worn with belted sweater ($35) by Korrigan Lesur, Mr. John hat. Jason's Dacron-and-worsted gabardine suit ($90) is worn with yellow shirt ($8.50), Paisley tie ($5), a silk pocket square ($4), all Brooks Brothers. Hat is from Thomas Begg ($15). These pictures were taken in Arizona, and most of the clothes on this and subsequent pages are at Goldwater's, Phoenix, in addition to the other stores named.
Bell-bottom pants like a Mexican cowboy's and a lace-trimmed shirt are Texan Jo Decker's design for cowgirls. Deborah Dixon wears complete outfit at 49ers Ranch in Tucson ($50 pants, $35 shirt, $30 hat, $45 Justin boots: all Neiman-Marcus).
Python, a contender for animal-print popularity, marks a silk-chiffon dress vignetted in Sabino Canyon ($125, Donald Brooks for Townley: Frederick & Nelson; Lord & Taylor). Jewelry from Scaasi.
Yellow, a big color for spring, is worn by Frank Gerrity at Tucson Country Club. Crew-neck pullover is of Shetland ($16.50, Brooks Bros.). Golf slacks are wash-and-wear blend of Vycron and cotton ($12, Seven Seas: Wallach's). Champion glove ($4), Elster hat ($4).
Two vacationers combine Eastern-cut jackets with Western-cut pants on an Arizona ride. Deborah wears hunter's-pink leather jacket ($90, Bonnie Cashin for Sills: Saks Fifth Ave., New York; Jax, Beverly Hills). Her ranch pants are corduroy ($21.50, Miller's, New York). Frank's Shetland sport jacket is checked in maroon, gray and white ($65, M. Sigel: Mark, Fore & Strike, Florham Park, N.J.). Pants are whipcord ($10.50, Levi Strauss).
From the air to overland
The coats below have a fine regard for spring's caprices. They are topcoat weight and water-repellent. Both can adapt to quick climatic changes: Jason's gabardine has a removable liner, Leone's corduroy trench coat is lined in green gingham check to match her gingham shirtwaist. These and the ranch-country clothes shown on the following pages are as useful outdoors as Studebaker's new Overlander, the camping truck shown on the next page.
A classic double-breasted corduroy trench coat ($50) is lined to match smocked Swiss-gingham dress ($28) by Bill Atkinson for Glen of Michigan (Harold's, Minneapolis; Kaibab Shop, Tucson; Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh). Briefcase is from Ronay; shoes, Sandler of Boston. Jason's cotton gabardine topcoat ($50, London Weather-proofs) has Zelan finish, wool lining that buttons in. Ranch clothes are Levi Strauss, the hat, Stetson.
1 At Tucson's 49ers Ranch, Leone wears an Easterner's tapered pants ($70) and shirt ($66) of chamois (Samuel Robert: I. Magnin & Co.; Neiman-Marcus; Neusteter's, Denver) with cowgirl boots from Stewart's of Tucson.
2 Safari-cloth culotte ($32.50), velour pullover ($13), Viyella shirt ($14: all Abercrombie & Fitch) make up Suzy Ruel's riding outfit.
3 Italian shooting coat ($35, International Trends) is shown with special-order Studebaker Overlander camping truck with twin bunks, stove, refrigerator, sink; top can be raised at one end for standing room (about $3,000).
4 Suèdevest($32.50, Philip Sills: Mark Cross) rides over Tim Sexon's seersucker shirt (Levi Strauss: Cowboy Shop, Denison, Texas).
5 Plaid hacking jacket of brown-and-white cotton ($35), silk polka-dot shirt ($16), cotton gabardine frontier pants ($16) are ranch attire for Leone (John Weitz for Nardis of Dallas: B. Altman & Co.). Silk scarf is from Far Eastern. Jason's sport jacket ($115) of iridescent gabardine with front paneling (Chester Barrie: Cavanaugh, New York) is worn over leather-piped linen vest (Philip Sills).
For golfers—more room to swing
Freedom to swing, to follow through to the limit, is something golfers cherish. This spring they will have plenty of it, in a greater choice of clothing than ever before designed for golfers. Action details characterize every garment a golfer needs: jackets and shirts are cut with action backs and sleeves; new knitted shirts have nonbinding sleeves. Rain jackets have insets of mesh and knit which not only add swinging room but also provide aeration for weather-resistant fabrics. Slacks and shorts are characterized by bellows pockets which accommodate a golfer's paraphernalia, including a removable madras pocket. The pullover sweater is replacing the long-favored cardigan, and for women there are blazer jackets to be worn, like men's, with silk foulard scarves.
1 Free-swinging Jill Hammond wears one-piece romper ($9) under pleated madras kilt ($12). Both by Florence Walsh (The Village Stores, Michigan; Hahne & Co., Montclair and Newark). Golf shoes are from Foot-Joy.
2 Waiting out a shower, Jill wears poplin jacket with back of cotton knit ($11), matching bellows-pocketed shorts ($7) and cotton-knit pullover ($6), all by Catalina (Jordan-Marsh, Miami; May Co.-D & F., Denver). Suzy Ruel wears a white poplin golf jacket ($19) from Ernst Engel (Saks Fifth Avenue) under Uncle Sam golf umbrella.
3 Golf Pro Frank Gerrity's McGregor jacket ($15) of Kodel-and-Topel blend shows stretch insert (Gimbels, New York).
4 Golfer Hammond swings in long-sleeve shirt of polka dot Dacron-and-cotton ($12) and blue Bermudas ($12). By Frank Smith for Masket (Lord & Taylor; I. Magnin, California and Seattle). Hat ($5) at Abercrombie & Fitch; glove ($3.25), Champion.
5 Suzy wears checked blazer ($13), white shorts ($9), lilac shirt ($7), all by Loomtogs (Joseph Magnin; Saks Fifth Avenue, N.Y.).
6 A University of Arizona golf champ, Tim Sexon, shows golf jacket of Kodel-and-Topel blend ($15) by Robert Lewis (Lord & Taylor Men's Shop), "Ban-Lon" golf shirt ($9) by Puritan and checked golf slacks ($15) of Dacron-cotton blend with hidden bellows pockets and tuck-away towel loop in back by Hickok (Shillito's, Cincinnati).
7 Frank's Orlon-and-rayon slacks ($17) by Gordon-Ford have button-off pocket (John Barkley, Pittsburgh; Mark, Fore & Strike, Naples and Del Ray, Florida). Orlon-cotton polo shirt ($7) has new loose sleeve (Amho).
Following the horses
It's on the springtime race track or polo field, as the season moves from south to north, that the spectator really feels the vagaries of this changeable time of year. Medium-weight fabrics are the answer, as shown here for men in a new sports jacket and modified Continental-cut suit. For women, the lightweight wool tweed or knit dress, newest in bare-arm, open-neckline styles with a companion topper, is a spring traveler's alternate to a city suit.
1 At a polo match at the Southern Arizona School for Boys, Suzy Ruel steps out of a Rolls-Royce in sleeveless wraparound dress of hand-woven wool tweed ($50) by Esther Larsen for Captain Paul (Captain Paul House, Pomfret Center, Conn.). Her gloves are from Kislav, her diamond and ruby clips, Cartier.
2 The seller's window at Rillito Park Race Track in Tucson is where money goes west. The players are Jason Will in jacket of medium-weight muted plaid ($50) by Michaels-Stern (Lipman's, Portland). His hat is from Stetson ($15). Frank Gerrity's lightweight worsted flannel suit ($175) is a one-button Hickey-Freeman variation of the Continental cut (Capper & Capper, Detroit; Kolmer-Marcus, New York). His hat, too, is Stetson ($12).
3 Deborah Dixon goes to the races in a sleeveless sheath of leather-bound jersey ($45) and mohair topper ($160) by Bonnie Cashin for Philip Sills (Bloomingdale's; Nan Duskin, Philadelphia; Himelhoch Bros. & Co., Detroit). Her double-strap satchel is from Ronay ($13), her doeskin gloves from Kislav.
4 A new Johnston & Murphy shoe ($35) has high vamp, is made of glove leather (Desmond's, Los Angeles; Whitehouse & Hardy).
5 In a perilous pose on the polo field, Suzy shows a navy wool knit dress ($35), a copy by Goldworm of a polo shirt, with inset bands of green and white (Wm. H. Block Co., Indianapolis; Lord & Taylor, New York). Her zippered pouch travel bag ($40) is from Roger Van S; spectator pumps from Sandler of Boston; jewelry, Cartier; doeskin gloves, Kislav.
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