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Original Issue


August in Deauville is a poem of summer in which time turns back to a gilded age. Paris is empty; its blood has flowed to this Norman seaside town, which suddenly quickens with Thoroughbreds, Rolls-Royces, yachts, croupiers, princes and plain people. They move among the scenes shown in color on the following eight pages

While most of Deauville sleeps, in grand hotel or Norman villa, trainers exercise their horses on morning's tide-packed sand

Noon means bikinis at Deauville's Bar du Soleil and sailboats playing casino-lined waters, a scene beloved and often painted by Dufy

The tents of Deauvilles "Palm Beach" march splendidly on sands where Normans first landed

In the picnic atmosphere of tree-shaded enclosures (opposite), fans check tipsheets as Jockey Claude Drieux parades by

Every afternoon Deauville goes to the races. Every yard of the running can be seen either from the lawn or in the stands

In the midnight quiet of a salle privée in Deauville's Casino, shown here for the first time, there is no limit at the baccarat table—$80,000 once went on a single hand

The Deauville season is mid-May to September 30; the high season, mid-July to September 1. GETTING THERE: Air France has daily flights from London mid-July through August; weekend flights September 1 to 17. Channel ferry (1½ hours) leaves Lydd, Kent, at 10:30 a.m. Mondays through Fridays, June 5 to September 8. Frequent trains from Gare St. Lazare in Paris take two hours. By car from Paris on the Autoroute de l'Ouest it is 130 miles. STAYING THERE: Hotel Normandy, de luxe, on the beach; $12-$20 single, with breakfast; $16-$24 American plan; all 500 rooms have baths. Hotel Royal, also de luxe, on beach; $8-$18 with breakfast. Hotel Arcades and Hotel de La Fresnaye, first class, $8-$12. Deauville Palace and Hotel Le Morny, second class, $6. EATING: Cyro's, brasserie-type restaurant on the water, is best in Deauville; full meal $8 with wine. Grill Room at Casino and the Chalet Normand are both excellent. Jarrasse is best for seafood; full meal $7 with wine. La Roseraie is homey, offbeat (try crepes Deauville, appetizer of ham, cheese, cream sauce); full meal $4.50 with wine. Calvados, Normandy's apple brandy, and cider are justifiably world-famous specialties of the region, SIGHTSEEING: If Deauville itself isn't enough, Mont-Saint-Michel is a day's outing away. PLAYING: Racing season at Deauville track (flat racing) and Clairefontaine (flat and steeplechase) is July 14 to September 3. Yearling sales, August 19 to 29. Casino stars France's top talent in two cabarets, is open Easter through October; Winter Casino is open rest of year. There are 25 tennis courts, two golf courses, all open to public; yacht racing all summer. Polo season runs from about August 5 to August 27. Children's riding lessons (in French) are given at Le Poney behind Hotel Normandy.