Sack the shape or shape the sack?

"The shape of the jackets worn here by steeplechase jockeys on the United Hunts race circuit is causing the biggest haberdashery flap since the Ivy Leaguers' shapeless three-button sack coat became a national male uniform 10 years ago. "It's too British," say some, and indeed the fitted and flared cut takes its inspiration from the classic lines of an Englishman's riding jacket. "It won't sell," say others, firmly entrenched in their Ivy League shops. The truth of the matter is that its fitted lines are more difficult to tailor and many a retailer would rather keep the nonfitting sack. But well-dressed men, whether on horseback or in Mustangs, like the sporty new silhouette and already are giving their old-fashioned sack coats the sack.

Gabardine jacket worn by Olympic equestrian Frank Chapot (above) at the Rose Tree hunt in Media, Pa. emphasizes fitted and flared cut.

Over his silks Jonathan Sheppard (left) wears new-style jacket with wider lapels, darted front and hacking pockets at Purchase, N. Y. meet.

A shaped jacket in a horsy plaid is worn by steeplechaser Paddy Smithwick (right, with Mrs. Center Hitchcock in the Purchase paddock).

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ROBERT PHILLIPS

TWO PHOTOS