What It Takes A climbing heavyweight knows that at 26,000 feet, the key is to be a lightweight
Ed Viesturs is two summits shy of becoming the first American to
summit all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks without
supplemental oxygen. In June, Viesturs, 43, will head for
Pakistan's 26,660-foot Nanga Parbat, which he attempted in June
2001, only to turn back because of dangerous conditions near the
top. Here's the gear he's bringing:
1 BACKPACK
JanSport Endeavor 8000 Pro ($279) (www.jansport.com)
"There are all these eight-pound packs out there that have too
much stuff on them, like extra zippers and pockets. This
high-volume pack is only four pounds. That's a huge difference
when you've been climbing all day."
2 TENT
Mountain Hardwear Annapurna Tent ($450) (www.mountainhardwear.com)
"Your tent is your haven. It needs to be absolutely impenetrable,
and this is. At six pounds, 14 ounces, it's almost as light as a
single-wall bivvy tent, but it's a double-wall. You'd feel quite
safe in this on any of the world's highest peaks, even in a storm."
3 PORTABLE POWER
Brunton Solo/Solaris ($649)(www.brunton.com)
"It's a silent, clean way to produce energy. Hook it up to the
solar panel ($399), and you can recharge your video camera
batteries, or you can run a laptop or satellite phone."
4 JACKET
Mountain Hardwear Alchemy ($240) (www.mountainhardwear.com)
"It's indestructible. I wore it through Annapurna, and you
couldn't rip it, you could not abrade it. And it travels so
well. Even though it's a soft fabric (Gore Windstopper), it's
windproof and water-repellent."
5. Koflach Arctis Expedition boots ($355) (www.koflachusa.com);
6. Leki Makalu trekking poles ($89.95) (www.leki.com); 7.
Sterling 10 mm Marathon Dry rope ($165) (www.sterlingrope.com);
8. Petzl Corax harness ($69.95) (www.petzl.com); 9. Mountain
Hardwear Transition Zip T ($130) (www.mountainhardwear.com); 10.
Outdoor Research Brooks Ranger Overboots ($136)
(www.outdoorresearch.com); 11. Outdoor Research Professional
Modular Gloves ($76) (www.outdoorresearch.com); 12. Smartwool
Traditional Longsleeve Crew ($59.95) (www.smartwool.com); 13.
Dermatone 33 SPF Sunblock ($9.60); 14. Dermatone 23 SPF Spot
Protection and Stick for lips and face ($4.95); 15. Voile TelePro
Extreme shovel ($48) (www.viole-usa.com); 16. Charlet Moser Snow
Racer ice axe ($70) (www.petzl.com); 17. Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Explorer II ($3,875) (www.rolex.com); 18. Thermos Nissan Coffee
Press ($50) (www.thermos.com); 19. Charlet Moser Super12 RFF
crampons ($125) (www.petzl.com); 20. Magellan SporTrak Pro global
positioning system ($299.99) (www.magellangps.com); 21. Sherpa
Atmospheric Data Center ($159) (www.brunton.com); 22. Petzl
Ascension rope ascender ($49) (www.petzl.com); 23. Petzl
St'Anneau Slings ($6 to $10) (www.petzl.com); 24. Oakley Half
Jacket sunglasses ($145) (www.oakley.com); 25. Oakley Wisdom
goggles ($130) (www.oakley.com); 26. Outdoor Research Mountaineer
medical kit ($88) (www.outdoorresearch.com); 27. Petzl Elios
helmet ($155) (www.petzl.com); 28. Mountain Hardwear Highmountain
sleeping pad ($59) (www.mountainhardwear.com); 29. Smartwool
Mountaineer Socks ($19.95) (www.smartwool.com); 30. Brunton Crux
Foldable Butane Canister stove ($70) (www.brunton.com); 31.
Princeton Tec Vortec headlamp ($35.99) (www.princetontec.com).
TWO COLOR PHOTOS: RICH FRISHMAN