Brats Amore
CHEF TORY MILLER grew up working in his grandparents' diner in Racine, Wis. Then he set off for New York City to attend the French Culinary Institute. After a few years he made his way back to the Badger State, and now the world's top golfers will follow.
When the 117th U.S. Open tees off at Erin Hills, 35 miles northwest of Milwaukee, on June 15, it will be the first time the event takes place in Wisconsin, giving golf fans a chance to sample the local delicacies: a little cheddar followed by a beer-boiled brat. Miller, who was born in South Korea, offers up his take on the dish, with a nod to his heritage. "It's so exciting for me to make kimchi," Miller says. "It makes me feel like I have a little bit more validation as far as where I come from."
1 COOK THE BRATS
Heat a pot on medium high. Reduce to medium, add butter and onions and cook to lightly caramelize, about 20 minutes.
Add beer and a pinch of salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Add bratwurst, and lower heat to barely a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. The brats can be cooked ahead, cooled and kept in the beer, refrigerated.
2 MAKE THE MAYO
Mix ingredients in a bowl. Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use.
3 MAKE THE KIMCHI
Cut cabbage into two-inch squares. Place in a large bowl, fill with cold water. Drain cabbage in a colander. Add onion and sprinkle with salt. Let sit for two hours.
In a separate bowl, mix chili flakes, garlic, fish sauce, sugar and vinegar. Let sit for at least 15 minutes, until it turns into a paste.
Rinse the cabbage and onions with cold water, and drain. Put in a clean bowl and mix in the chili paste. Store in an airtight container.
4 ASSEMBLE
When ready to serve, grill each brat on all sides until browned. Then place them back into the beer and keep warm.
Place brats in a bun or sausage roll. Top with gochujang kewpie and kimchi. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds if desired.
Tory Miller is the chef/co-owner of L'Etoile, Sujeo, Estrellón and Graze, all in Madison, and the 2012 winner of the Beard Foundation's Best Chef: Midwest.
INGREDIENTS
BEER BRATS WITH KIMCHI AND GOCHUJANG-KEWPIE MAYONNAISE
6 bratwurst (uncooked)
1 yellow onion, peeled and sliced
3 12-oz. cans beer (lighter works better)
2 tablespoons butter
Gochujang-kewpie mayonnaise to taste (recipe below)
2½ cups kimchi (available in many grocery stores or see below for a kimchi recipe)
FOR THE MAYONNAISE
1 cup kewpie mayonnaise (or plain mayo, such as Duke's)
2 tablespoons gochujang chili paste
1 clove crushed garlic
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon honey
FOR THE KIMCHI
1 head Napa cabbage
2 tablespoons kosher salt
½ cup thinly sliced onion
2 tablespoons minced garlic
4 tablespoons dry Korean chili flakes
1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons white vinegar